|
Nova Scotia isn't quite the undiscovered paradise that it was a few decades ago. It's still paradise, but more people are
discovering it.
Minuscule compared to the other Canadian provinces & about the size of Maryland; only Prince Edward Island is smaller
yet Nova Scotia is chock full of activities and sightseeing. Little known fact for history buffs: Nova Scotia was actually
the 14th colony and would likely have joined the rebellion down South except that the British fleet was headquartered in Halifax.
In so many ways, this province is both familiar and different with a Scottish, Irish, and Acadian imprint that makes it truly
distinctive.
Unfortunately, Nova Scotia's small size is deceptive. The majority of visitors think they can the province in 3-5 days,
rather than the 10 days or more (still a bare minimum) needed to do justice to its beauty and variety. It's a long, narrow
peninsula almost entirely rural once you leave greater Halifax with only a few main highways. The highways pretty well by-pass
the best of the scenery, so visitors need to avoid them unless they're making a frantic dash for the airport or ferry.
To take but one region as an example, the Annapolis Valley can easily be a full one-week visit without allowing even a
moment to stop and simply relax. In this verdant landscape, the visitor will be enthralled by some of the loveliest farmland
and most breathtaking shoreline to be found anywhere in the Maritimes.
Consider this list of must-see within just one section of the Annapolis Valley, which follows part of the rugged and beautiful
shore of the Bay of Fundy, with its fabled high tides and the curious phenomenon of tidal bores (in which the tides roll up
dry-bed rivers twice daily).
Annapolis Royal, Canada's oldest settlement, was originally settled by the French in 1605, and was the provincial capital
until 1749. It's older than any English settlements in North America only the early Spanish settlements in Florida and New
Mexico are older. Now a sleepy little town to the drive-by who admire only its stunning Victorian architecture (fully half
the houses are Heritage Properties), Annapolis Royal is actually a regional hub of sorts for the arts, fine dining, and cultural
activities. Visitors who stop to enjoy more than a quick meal are immediately confronted by a host of choices.
There's live theatre, a weekly Farmers and Traders Market, art galleries, a variety of museums and unique shops plus the
Historic Gardens, which are a treat for both gardeners and the history-minded. The only truly new thing in town is the innovative
use of the tides to harness energy. Take the tour at the Tidal Power Station if you're curious. As Canada's oldest settlement,
Annapolis has Canada's oldest cemetery (you can take a candlelight tour) and oldest Catholic parish. Costumed interpreters
also invite you to stroll through the centuries and learn Annapolis Royal's history. Those who enjoy early morning and late
evening strolls will delight in the stunning views of the Annapolis River from Fort Anne, Canada's oldest historic park especially
the views of Annapolis Royal's twin town& of Granville Ferry.
You've barely left Annapolis before you're confronted with more choices go East to Kejimkujik Park to enjoy the lakes,
forest walks, and Indian petroglyphs? (The Mic Mac tribe is still found in nearby Bear River.) Or go West to Digby, famed
for its scallops and Maud Lewis, Canada's Grandma Moses? Or take the spur through historic Granville Ferry to spend a day
at Port Royal Habitation, an excellent restoration of the early French settlement?
If you're traveling with children, you may plan a day at one of the few amusement parks this writer has ever truly enjoyed
Upper Clements Amusement and Wildlife Park clean and green but still packed with activities that the kids will remember fondly.
And if you want to remind them that life is still a serious affair, there's a one-room schoolhouse in Tupperville, off on
another spur near Annapolis.
If you enjoy the charms of one-of-a-kind historic towns, you can head to Bear River, Digby, or Bridgetown each with museums,
shopping, and restaurants to enjoy. Any visitor with even a moderate appreciation for stunning scenery will detour to Delaps
Cove Wilderness Trail short but oh-so-scenic, with small waterfalls and dense forest. The trail ends abruptly as you overlook
the Bay of Fundy and its elaborate rock formations. If the stroll woke up your appetite, stop in Parkers Cove on your way
back to get a fresh cooked lobster and a free tour of the Lobster Pound, if you're curious. Just across the road, you pull
out your camera to preserve memories of the picture-postcard-perfect view of the lobster fleet.
No trip to this part of Nova Scotia would be complete without an excursion to Digby Neck and Brier Island. You can sign
up for a whale-watching expedition, or simply enjoy the drive and ferry ride. You'll be enthralled by both the beautiful shoreline
and variety of wildlife. Although you're barely an hour from Annapolis Royal, you're already halfway to the French Shore,
where many Acadians moved after their deportation by the English. Again interesting museums, fine restaurants, scenery that
you will never forget. And from Annapolis Royal you're only 1 l/2 - 2 hours from other worthwhile destinations Lunenburg
on the Atlantic Ocean, Yarmouth at the tip (direct car ferries to Bar Harbor and Portland, Maine), and Wolfville farther up
the Valley on the way back to Halifax.
Visitors can easily find almost any special interest& activity they might enjoy in the Annapolis Valley: golf, horseback
riding, tennis, boating/fishing, antiquing, biking/motorcycling tours, etc. Nova Scotia has dotted the landscape with a helpful
network of Visitor Information Centres, and their provincial travel guide (Doers and Dreamers) is an excellent resource.
So that's why I'd recommend that visitors allow at least a week (two or three would be better) to tour Nova Scotia this
article doesn't even mention Cape Breton, a stunning vista of tall mountains, brooding cliffs, and charming villages but it's
better known than the Annapolis Valley. If Cape Breton's on your list, please remember that while Nova Scotia is small, it's
quite narrow and long, and distances are deceptive. So if you choose to drive to Maine for the ferry to Yarmouth, it's only
about two hours to Annapolis Royal but Cape Breton will be at least a full day of hard driving, and you'll miss the scenery.
In fact, few people would wind up making the trip from Yarmouth to Cape Breton in a day, no matter what they'd planned.
I think of this small province as an entire continent that has somehow been compressed into a little bit of heaven on
earth. Just be sure to allow the time you need to explore, enjoy, and store up the memories.
Suggestions on packing: Nova Scotia summer days are typically warm and sunny, but evenings can be quite cool and breezy.
Good walking shoes are a must, plus jeans or slacks and at least a sweatshirt or light jacket.
_____________________________________________________________
|
Connie Arnold is a freelance writer currently working in South Korea.
She has published several articles on traveling in South Korea at various travel websites.
Contact at: connie_arnold@hotmail.com
|
|
|
